Monday, December 17, 2007

In The Midst....

Good morning, some three days after a 30 hour trip from my hotel in Amman, Jordan and a welcoming home in Arlington. I won't bore you with that story. It made coming home that much more appealing. I did long to be with Kay and the warmth of her love, as well with my church family who nurtured me along the way. Otherwise, there was no hurry. Savoring the experience began then, and continues today, and tomorrow, I suspect.

On that long flight from Amman, I was fortunate to have four seats in the rear of the plane to stretch out and sleep, as the plane was half empty. About two hours before we landed, I sat up and these words came to me:

IN THE MIDST

In the Midst of the Promised Land, live two peoples:
One controlling - one controlled.
But, in the end, have lost their souls:
one misguided - the other derided.
And our God weeps amongst the stones.

Within and out of the walls of concrete and steel,
Live two peoples - lost in fear:
One to feeling within itself -
And one who waits for the unknown that lies in some distant way….
And, the whole world weeps without knowing why.

Find, within the prison of the land itself,
The settlers surrounding what remains:
A vineyard, a farm, a spirit beyond belief
That challenges their presence without relief,
From energy spurred by countless souls
Who weep beside them - the living stones.

Who are the children amidst this land
Who’ve seen nothing new for decades now?
Within these walls, what they must claim
As a future, fades. They steadfastly exclaim,
“This is my home, my native land.
It’s here I’ve made my final stand.”
And God weeps and moans for the newest living stones.

In the mountains, valleys, and the seas
Lay those places where the pilgrims come
To see the ‘footsteps’ of one who practiced what he was.
The stone, the brick, and mortar, too,
Produce the walls of seasoned tones
To whispers, prayers, voices, and even a ‘harp’, too.
And our God weeps amongst the chorus.

What lies amidst the hearts and minds
Of soldiers who stand by the gates – defined -
Which are meant to withstand, contain and resist the threats
Of peoples who know no other way?
As soldiers, here and there, raise two fingers in the form of ‘V’,
In hopes of peace, harmony that might release
The guilt, the embarrassment, the regret that they must feel.
And, our God weeps beside them.

Bill
December 2007

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

And the Olive Trees of Daher's

Whoops! I lost the blog, but will continue.

So, the planting at the "fence" was a real celebration, and documented by the group with pictures. That portion of the land will live for another day, perhaps until the settlers come again to erase the only proof that the farmers have that they are farming the land -their land. To not do so, means they lose it.

Back at Dahers', I finished the planting of the family trees on the north side of Daher's 100 acre farm, now surrounded by new settlements since I was here last. I remained on the slope with the planting until nearly sun set. As I completed my work, and looked across the valley to the West, where one could almost make out the Med. Sea. I took out my harmonica, as I have done many times these last few weeks at very special moments, and played some songs of peace and love. I could almost hear the echo from the hills across the way where one of the settlements stood at the top of the ridge on prime land. Daher was off to attend a funeral of a friend in Beit Jala. His mother, Maladie and two young volunteers from Germany, who were doing alternative civil service, and I, joined together for a dinner around the outside fire place where most meals are prepared and eaten. The Israelis still haven't granted permission for electicity and water, but the Nasser family persist anyway. What enormous patience they show in the face of overwhelming power. Let us hope that the Israeli courts end this struggle by granting them their rights to their own land. In the meantime, they persist.

That evening we all hung out on the porch of their house, the two German volunteers and one Austrian woman who had been doing volunteer work since last April, smoked from a water pipe together. After a meal of fruits and vegetables from the farm, we huddled closer to the fire for heat, as the days are warm, and the nights are chilly. I borrowed Daoud's guitar and we sang songs, including Christmas carols and such for a few hours before retiring to bed, after a long but amazing day. It felt good to be "on the land" as Daoud says. It is such a peaceful place, an unlikely contrast to what goes on outside his farm, where settlers hover to absorb every acre they can. I can't help believe that justice will prevail.

See you in a few days.. Love, Bill

Solidarity for the live farmers at Beit Omar and Nehalin

Just found out my flight was delayed 8 hours, so I will be here another day. It is probably good in some ways, as I was working on the farm of Daher this morning, pruning trees, feeding the animals, and completing the planting of seven trees for the family, and a one for a fellow traveler, and then, as an afterthought, one for our President, with a sign saying" Please bring peace with justice for all in this land".

As was the case last year, extending my stay so that I could travel alone was a good decision and resulted in a separate experience beyond what a wonderful pilgrimage had offered. I described the experience with the family in Beit Sahour in the previous blog. The meeting with the Deheisheh staff was an hour late, and many of the women staff members had gone home by the time I had been able to negotiate my way from Ramallah. I meet with the some of the health committee staff, the U.N adminstrator for the camp, and the registraar for all the 130,000 refugees in the camps of the West Bank. It was an interesting meeting, under a tent in a local resturant outside the camp, complete with the water pipe and endless cigarette smoking which I didn't take part in, of course, but did experience the secondary effects, unfortunately. It was a fruit ful visit, and I was able to establish a personal relationship with the key staff, if the Mission and Service Ministry decides to go forward in its partnership. There are many needs in the camp, and they are doing miracles with what they have to work with. I then road the taxi with the staff in charge of the youth program, as he was going my way back to Beit Sahour. My family was waiting there for a last meal and final good byes. Other friends in Beit Jala, were disappointed that I was not arriving at the time I had said I would. Arab hospitality is an amazing force. After some wonderful food, and some tearful goodbyes, I head to the other side of Bethlehem to visit with Amal's family.

They were eager to share their experinces of the last year since I was there, including a wedding for Monjed, and a bout with cancer by Fameih. The hour of videos of wedding dances was a cultural experienc, not unlike here when proud parents show "their pictures -just a few"! The next day, Fameih I had tea together before the others rose. It was a courageous story of her battle with breast cancer and under the stress of the occupation which makes the struggle with the disease pale in comparison. We also talked about establishing an distribution system with folks in America who might be interested in supporting the sale of the embroidery work of many women in the area. I bought several pieces of her work. Those of you who admired the wall hanging by Fameih, can purchase one like it. They are masterpieces, and go a long way to support the families of women in the local villages. Monjed, whom I contracted last year as a free lance photo journalist, to some videos on topics of importance. He share two tapes which I will bring back with me, one about the Israeli Prison system , and the children in the camp of Deheisheh who were greatly affected by the tank invasion in 2003. Both are gripping.

Following some quality time with friends their, I took the bus south to the vineyard of Daher. some of you met with Daoud, his brother when he was a Trinity church. I had planned to go there at the end of the trip to work on the farm, and plant some olive trees. I was able to do that and more. The Presbyterian Peace Fellowship delegates "commissioned" me to go to the village of Beit Omar, with members of the Holy Land Trust and the children of that village to plant trees along the base of the "security" fence, where they had been recently uprooted by settlers and soldiers. The land belongs to a farmer in the village and through the myriad of requirements the Palestinians have to meet to maintain ownership, including tending to the trees inside their land and on the other side of the "fense". Figure that one out.

The planting of the trees there, became a festival sorts, as we carried the trees through the village, children came out of the wood works to join us. Many of them took part in the planting. We were just about five feet from the "fence", on the farmer's land, and as we completed the planting a settler patrol truck, followed by a few soldiers, approached on the other side. By that time, we had finished planting the twelve trees for the delegates, and the farmer had twelve children of the village stand by each one as we

Sunday, December 9, 2007

A Land of Love, Care and Courage

Dear friends,

This will be a short report, as I need to return by bus from Ramullah to meet with the directors of the Ibdaa Health Committee in Deheisheh Refugee camp. I have had wonderfu rentry to the country from Jordan, and spent the night with my host family who insisted I stay with them last night. We had lunch which was wonderfully prepared, and the encouraged to take a nap. For me this was a welcomed activity as it had taken me six hours to negotiate the travel from Amman to Bethelehem through the check points. I waited anxiously at the border while the Iserali security held my passport and, sent numerous soldiers to interview me with many of the same questions. I thought for awhile I would be denied entry.

So, a nap was welcomed. The family planned to include me on a Saturday night tradition, of staying up until mid night when the hot bread was prepared, before hitting the streets the next day. It was worth waiting for as we sang songs (not me - played my harp to a new middle easter sound) to the beat of a egyptian aoud (11 strings) and celebrations by all of the extended family of some 12 people, and me. Got up early and went to the Church of Nativity and joined in on a Roman Catholic service where I meditated by calling to focus all the faces of people I have met these last two weeks. It was a review of some special moments. The generosity of the people I have met on the streets and in the homes as been overwhelming. I am grateful for their love.

I will try to write one more time when I reach Jordan on Tuesday night. I will leave in the morning to plant olive trees for a farmer whose land is about to be sucked up by the settlers. Each you will who follow me wherever I go, will have a tree in your name. The Presbyterian Felllowship companions have launched me on this mission. I am but a vehicle. Love, Bill

Friday, December 7, 2007

Crossing the Borders

Well, you might have been reading the best piece I've written, but after typing it out late last night, I pushed the wrong button and lost the whole piece. But trust me, it was good! :^)

We left Israel on Thursday morning after having spent a wonderful time in a small hotel which we had for ourselves (tourism is down - and it needn't be), at the top of the hill in Nazareth. Our movement across the border was fairly smoothe by Israeli standards. One of our group was singled out and questioned about his appearance - beard and braid, the nature of his trip and other questions that seemed probing and invasive. One can only surmise that it was another data gathering device used to monitor the activities of groups like ours.

The purpose of the day ws to visit the ancient ruins fo the Roman city of Jeresh which has been carefully reconstructed to portray life for its citizens some 2,000 years ago. After about an hour and half ride from the border, we had lunch at the entrance to the city, and walked the main street of the city which took over 300 years to develop. The street was lined with massive pillars, some taller than others which indicated the importance of the place. To the right of the entrance was a huge track that still has a yearly comemorative race and the end of which the loser is not executed as might have been done during Roman times. One could almost imagine the furor on the track as teams of horses raced around and around. The theatre with the capacity of 5,000 sat high on the hill above the city where attendees might have watched Greek drama or some kind of entertainment. The forum in teh center, was a large space that led to a long street, some 4,000 meters long. The structures of the market, the bathes and various temples were some of the principal buildings there. One could almost imagine the din of activity on market day. Those among us who have traveled to Rome indicated that these ruins were the most extensive they had seen in Italy. The power of the Roman Empire was so evident in the massive stone arcles and walls of granite and limestone. What an experience!

We then traveled back to Amman for an hour, passing the rich agricultural valleys below with their fields of fruit trees that looked like the occupied territories might have appeared before the 1967.

In the ening, befoe a wonderul meal of fresh veggies and stewed chicken, we heard from the leader of the Malkite church in the region and was inspiring as he talked about ways he has worked to build an interfaith dialogue with Muslims and other Christians in Jordan.

Today we worshipped in East Amman at an Orthodox Greek church and met with the elders of the church who expressed their disgust for American foreign policy which has created a disaster for the Arabs in the region. Later in the afternoon we met with two IRAQI refugees who shared their stories, and talked about the work they did for some of the more than 1 million Iraqis in the region.

I leave in the morning for the West Bank and a mandate by our group to plan olive trees on behalf of Presbyterian Peace Fellowship. Talk with you when I return on Tuesday. LOVE AND PEACE TO YOU THIS DAY. bill

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

A Day in the Paths of Jesus' Walk to Justice

Well today was a bit of break from the intense visits in the besieged cities, with their checkpoints, walls, fences, and oppressed peoples. We traveled down from the ridge of the City of Nazareth to the base where we walked around the Basilica of the Annunciation where Mary was believed to have received the call from God. Whether you believe this is the actual place or not, is your choice. I feel content that this is a special place and the miracle could have occured here. As I have with every sacred space we have visited, I have felt compelled to pull out my harp and play some hymn or song that comes to mind, be that "Michael Row your boat ashore"or "Here I am Lord". Today, I stumbled across two violinists standing near the chapel of Tabgha. I pulled out my harp, and looked for places where I could harmonize with them. It was delightful - at least for a few moments. In any case the accoustics in these chapels and churches is special and I find God more in those moments than in others along our tour.

We traveled to Tiberius also, where Jesus is to have preached in the synagogue and visited the remains of the home of Peter. We also went to the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount. Here we read the scripture together where Walt gave a short explication, and we traded interpretations as we faced the Sea of Galilee on the most beautiful day since we arrived. Later we went to Tabgha where he is believed to have fed the hungry with loaves and fishes. By then it was lunch time and we nearby for some fish from the sea and fresh vegetables and fruit from nearby fields at a seaside restaurant by the Galilee. What a beautiful body of water, nestled between the mountains and hills. We all of course, took the opportunity to dip our feet in the Sea, and generally laughed and enjoyed the day. The group has worked well together, and after a night where we had walked a half mile because the "flying" Israeli checkpoint prevented us from reaching an Israeli bus that we were exchanging for our Palestinian one, this was a pleasant break for the soul. (I forgot to mentioned that we were further delayed at the Israeli check point by young soldiers who held us up for nearly an hour while they searched our records, even though we had full permissions for what we were doing. It was yet another experience of humiliation and frustration that many Palestinians endure each day.)

In the afternoon, we drove to Golan Heights where we climbed high, upwards to Mt. Hermon (at nearly nine thousand feet) in occupied SYRIA, where stopped off in a Caesaria Phillipi where the worshippers of the pagan temple, constructed by the Emperor, paid homage to Pan. It is a beautiful place, hewn out of the side of the mountain, and surrounded by pristine mountain streams, still cold from the snow melt above.

Lastly, we arrived small Syrian village high in the Occupied territory there. The villagers are Druizs who have lived there as the occupied since the 1967 war. The director of a self help project there, that is transforming the way people receive health care, educate their youth and respond to the uprooting of olive trees, in a very creative way that has both Syrian and Israeli support. It was an inspiring moment to hear his story, and know of the difference his organization is making for the people in his village. I wonder if he would be as sucessful as those on the west bank who are surrounded by the Wall? Anyway, it is possible to resist the occupation in a non-violent way. I continue to be amazed and encouraged by those who stay the course.

Tomorrow, we had to Jordan for a visit with refugees from Iraq, and visit the ancient Roman site of Jerush. Should be quite a day. I will be returning to Bethlehem on Saturday to begin my visit with potential partners for our church community. I will also head down to the village of Nehalin to plant some olive trees at Daher's orchard before heading home myself.

Again, it is nearly twelve at night and after a long, but satisfying day. Thanks for your thoughts and prayers.

Peace, Bill

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Visits with Families Bring Comfort and Concern

After a morning of worship in Jerusalem, and meeting with the Bishop of Jerusalem about the status of Christians in the Holy Land, we took a contrasting tour of Tel Aviv and the old city of Jaffa on the Med. Sea. What breath of fresh air, after more than a week of experiencing the occupation. If you only experienced life in these coastal cities, you would think that all is well, for the places are void of walls, checkpoints, and by past roads and settlers. But that is not what is going on behind the walls, and within the hearts and souls of Israelis and Palestinians.

On the way back to Bethlehem, we prepared for two nights with our host families. The anticipation was a little unsettling, but after meeting the families in their homes we knew that these moments would be special. I was assigned alone to a family of three that grew to twenty pretty quickly. Jerius, Rodina and baby Loudra quickly wisked me off my feet with the over the top Arab hospitality. Nothing was too much to make me comfortable. Four month old Loudra, even slept through the night and when awake, charmed all of our hearts.

Rodina and Jerius speak more than adequate English, and far better than the few words I have learned in their language. Rodina teaches English to young children as it is a requirement for them to learn at least two languages. She is deeply frustrated by the level of violence that she sees in her students as they act out the impact of the occupation in the classroom. She finds it impossible to control, and efforts to do so have been fruitless. How can the young people not act out what they see each day?

Jerius works with olive wood and does quite well when he gets orders. He is a loving father and just adores his young daughter. At age 17, he was imprisoned for two years for throwing rocks at an Israeli jeep. Those two years disturbed not only his education, which Palestinians value highly, but left it's mark in many ways. Though he fully understands what he did was wrong, he seems almost oblivious to the grim experience he had those months, and the feelings about the helplessness he and many others feel at their lack of control over lives and destiny. It's almost like, oh, "at is to expected under present occupation". The collective oppression of the Palestinian people, and scaring of the Israeli soul casts a heavy pall on the land.

Still, there are many stories of hope with glimpses of soldiers who understand what they do, and the farmers who express their frustrations through patient, non violence resistance.

A case in point, while we were in the City of Hebron yesterday and passing through the security gates to Harem Abrahami Mosque, our guide was refused entry by the Army soldier, in his early 20'.s The conversation went something like this between them. Soldier withM-16 in his hands, "Count the number of Americans in your group." The Guide: "they're in front of you". Y"You count them said the soldier, I've got the power." Palestinian Guide: "No" What power do you have over me." I've got the gun", says the young soldier. No, said the guide, "'ve have my God".

"Then you can't go in" continued the guard. "Fine", said our Guide, I am a human being not a thing."

The humiliation our guide faced in our presence is what many in the Occupied Lands experience every day. It is no surprise that there both violence, and depression in the land.

Then their is young Loudra, who smiles in her father's arms, and when I hold her she coos, "while the whole world around her weeps". We pray for a better world for Loudra and the Children of both Palestinian and Israeli children.

It' been 18 hours since I rose this morning. Tomorrow we visit some of the sacred spaces around Nazaraeth, and I long for some moments of quite reflection in those places, and oh yes, a few magic moments with my harp within those hallowed walls of ancient churches. It is magical. Love , Bill

Saturday, December 1, 2007

More About the "Little" town

I got up early this morning and took a walk from Beit Sahour, a suburb of Bethlehem.   The town sits on the top of a hill, so it's a good cardio vascular workout which is greatly needed bccause of the intensity of our meetings each day.  We spend a lot of time listening and questioning our hosts.  As  I walk, people are out sweeping their sidewalks and cleaning their areas.  They stop  moment to return my "Marhaba", with a "Ahlan or "welcome".  I see lots of school children on the way, and they too are friendly so early in the morning.   Education is very much valued by the Palestinians and the children seem very animated and motivated.  I return after nearly making it to the church of nativity, before I head back to the small family hotel we are staying at.

The morning is filled with a walk through one of the three refugee camps in Bethlehem  (what would Jesus think?)    There over two thousand people living there since 1948 and half are children.  We are led on the tour by one of the non-violent trainers that work with Holy Land Trust, a conflict management center directed by Sami Awad whom we met that morning at his center.   The camp is active on a Saturday morning and we are followed through the narrow walk ways around the four acres of the camp which are now no longer tents, but concrete block houses stacked four  stories high to accommodate families of ten or more.   They are still quite dependent on UN assistance, and claim their  "guest" status as to do otherwise,  denies their claim to their homes that they were extracted from in 1948.   Each person we meet, as has been the case all week has a story about injustice, and their fading home to return to the land.  The also don't have much faith that the Israelis want peace, and that the Palestinians will receive justice.

In afternoon, we travel south to visit Beit Jahar which is a Palestinian village of 15,000 that is beseiged by an expanding Settlement to the north.   Yesterday it was the scene of a demonstration that we were to participate in, but decided not, at the last minute, as it would have jeopardized out visit with the neighboring settler.  Apparently, the village was not use to seeing foreigners, as it seemed that half the village turned out to see us.  We met with the mayor, and other leaders in the community and heard their story.  They were very proud of their youth, and have over 500 students at the local university.  We went over to see the sight of their Student Forum, which is a place located in the old part of the town.  The elders decided that the youth should have the space because it connects the young with their rich heritage.   Most of the town are employed in the stone quarry, and get little pay for very hard work.  The adults want more for their children.

In the evening,  I as able to invite Amal Nasser, sister of Daoud who is worshipping at my home church in Arlington tomorrow, or rather attending a pot luck in the evening.   The Tent of Nations is located on a farm not far from Bethlehem, high in the highlands where fruits and olive trees are nurtured.   Amal's family story is a rich one as they struggle with settlers now on four sides, and the Israeli courts.   You can log on to their sight at Tentofnations.com

Well,  my faithful friend, it's 11:30 P.M and time to turn in.  Tomorrow we worship in Jerusalem and then on to Tel Aviv for a tour before spending a few nights with some Palestinian families.  It has been quite a day.   Love, BIll